January 17th - Day 11

January 17th - Day 11 - Carry to 15,500
7:40 PM Alaska Time

 I Just got off the satellite phone with Lonnie.  Today was a perfect weather day with no wind and temperatures in the single digits below zero.  Today Lonnie made a carry up the Head Wall to 15,500.  The route up the Head Wall proved to be as challenging as we predicted.  The lower third  had some snow cover which covered the fixed lines that are placed there by the Park Service. (the slope is quite steep here 50+ degrees)  As he continued his climb up he came to a large Bergshrund (A bergschrund is a crevasse that forms at the upper end of a mountain glacier where the moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice above). As the moving ice pulled away, the fixed lines were stretched extremely tight and were buried deep in the snow.  The Bergschrund was filled with snow in one spot where Lonnie was able to make his way across it. Once past the bergschrund Lonnie ran into about 100 metere of exposed blue ice that he double ice axed up to 15,500  feet.  Lonnie then tied his pack off to the fixed lines that were exposed above the bergsrhund and ice.  He then attached his rope to the fixed line and rappelled down the steep section of ice.  He returned to 14,200 camp and is going to get some rest.  The plan tomorrow is to retrace his route up the Head Wall to 15,500, retrieve his gear proceed to the top of the Head Wall at 16,200 and then make his way along the West Buttress ridge to 17,200 camp.  Lonnie is feeling good and his spirits are high.

The picture was taken yesterday at his 14,200 camp with the Head Wall in the background.  The picture doesn't capture how Steep this portion of the climb really is.  UPWARD!